Driveway sub-base & foundations
In short
The layer nobody sees and the one that decides everything. Excavation to a depth set by the ground and the traffic, a separation membrane where the subgrade is soft, and compacted crushed stone laid in layers — with the depths written into the quote rather than left to trust.
Also called: Driveway foundation · MOT Type 1 sub-base · How deep should a driveway be · Driveway hardcore
Signs you need this
- Ruts developing along the wheel tracks within a few years
- A drive that has sunk generally rather than in one place
- Map-pattern cracking across an area of tarmac
- A surface that feels springy or moves underfoot
- Gravel that has disappeared into the ground
- Comparing quotes that give a price but no depths
Everything visible on a driveway is a wearing surface. The structure is the compacted stone underneath it, and its job is to take a concentrated wheel load and spread it out until the pressure reaching the soil is something that soil can carry without deforming. Get that right and almost any surface performs. Get it wrong and the best blocks, the best resin and the thickest tarmac in the world will still rut, crack and sink.
The depth is set by two things: what the ground is, and what will drive on it. A firm, well-drained subgrade under a normal car might want 150mm of compacted sub-base; soft clay, a slope, or somewhere a motorhome or a delivery lorry parks needs considerably more. In practice a domestic drive usually finishes 200–250mm above formation once the surface and laying course are added — but that is a typical figure, not a specification, and the right one comes from looking at the ground.
MOT Type 1 is the usual material and it is worth knowing what it is. It is a graded crushed stone to the Specification for Highway Works, with a controlled range of particle sizes from about 40mm down to dust — and the dust matters, because those fines are what let it lock together into a dense, stable layer when it is compacted. Clean single-sized stone, by contrast, does not lock; it is used deliberately in permeable construction where drainage is the point, and it is the wrong material under a conventional drive.
Compaction is where corners get cut invisibly. Stone has to be laid and whacked in layers of roughly 100–150mm, each one compacted before the next goes on. A 250mm layer tipped in and rolled once is compacted at the top and loose underneath, and it consolidates under traffic over the following two years — which is exactly what a drive that has developed wheel-track ruts is doing. There is no way to tell from the finished surface, which is why it belongs in writing.
The geotextile membrane is cheap and frequently omitted, and its job is separation rather than strength. Without it, on soft ground, wheel loads pump the fine subgrade up into the stone and press the stone down into the subgrade, and within a few years there is no clean structural layer left. On firm, granular ground it may genuinely not be needed; on clay it is close to essential. Where the subgrade is very soft, a geogrid — which interlocks with the stone and spreads load far wider — does more than simply adding depth.
One last point about how to read a quote. A driveway quote that gives a rate per square metre and says nothing about excavation depth, sub-base thickness, membrane or compaction is not telling you what you are buying, and the difference between two such quotes tells you nothing useful. Asking for those numbers in writing costs nothing, is entirely reasonable, and is the single most effective way to compare one contractor with another.
What the job covers
- Ground conditions assessed, with a trial hole where there is doubt
- Excavation depth set by the subgrade and the intended traffic
- Formation level checked and any soft spots dug out further
- Geotextile membrane, or geogrid where the ground is very soft
- Graded crushed-stone sub-base to the Specification for Highway Works
- Laid and mechanically compacted in layers, not in one lift
- Open-graded clean stone where the build-up is permeable by design
- Excavation depth, sub-base thickness and compaction stated in the quote
What it costs
We don't publish a price for this yet, because a number pulled out of the air is worse than no number at all — your contractor has to honour it. On driveways it would also be close to meaningless: the groundworks are usually the biggest single factor, and how deep the dig has to go varies enormously house to house. You'll get a firm price for your actual job when they ring you back, before any work starts. The quote itself is free and there's no obligation either way.
Common questions
How deep should a driveway be dug out?
It depends on the ground and the traffic, which is why a single number is not an honest answer. For a normal car on reasonable ground, expect the finished level to sit around 200–250mm above formation once sub-base, laying course and surface are counted. Soft clay, a slope or heavier vehicles all push it deeper. The right number comes from looking at the ground.
What is MOT Type 1 and does it matter?
It is graded crushed stone to the Specification for Highway Works, with particle sizes from around 40mm down to dust. Those fines are what make it lock together under compaction into a dense, stable layer. It matters because clean single-sized stone does not lock — that is used in permeable construction where drainage is the point, and it is wrong under a conventional drive.
Do I really need a membrane?
On soft or clay ground, effectively yes. Without it, wheel loads pump fine soil up into the stone and press stone down into the soil, and within a few years the structural layer has mixed itself away. On firm granular ground it may genuinely not be needed. It is inexpensive, which makes leaving it out on marginal ground a false economy.
How can I tell if a contractor has compacted properly?
By being there when it happens, or by getting it in writing beforehand. Stone should be laid and whacked in layers of roughly 100–150mm, each compacted before the next goes down. One deep lift rolled once is loose underneath and consolidates under traffic over the following years. It is invisible in the finished drive, which is exactly why it belongs in the quote.
Need this doing in Macclesfield?
Tell us the job and it goes straight to our local contractor — one call back, usually the same day. Free quote, no obligation.