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EV charge point bases, ducting & parking bays

In short

The groundworks half of an EV charge point — ducting from the consumer unit to where the car parks, a firm level base for a post or bollard, and a parking bay that suits how the cable actually reaches the car. Best done while the drive is open; awkward and visible afterwards.

Also called: Electric car charger driveway · EV charger groundworks · Cable duct under driveway · Charging point base

Signs you need this

  • Having a driveway laid and knowing an electric car is coming
  • An existing charge point whose cable has to cross a walkway
  • Wanting to park away from the house wall
  • A charge point installation quoted with an awkward or exposed cable run
  • A drive being dug for any reason, with no duct in it
  • Needing a firm, level base for a charging post or bollard

Installing a home charge point is two jobs done by two trades. The electrical installation — the circuit, the protective devices, the earthing arrangement and the unit itself — is a qualified electrician's work and is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations. The groundworks — the duct route, the trench, the base for a post, the bay and the reinstatement — is this trade. Doing them in the right order saves a great deal of money and mess.

The single most valuable thing on this page is this: lay a duct while the drive is open, even if you have no charger and no electric car. A 50mm or larger duct with a draw cord, running from near the consumer unit to where a car will park, costs very little when the ground is already dug. Retro-fitting the same duct into a finished drive means cutting, trenching and reinstating — which on tarmac, resin or imprinted concrete leaves a permanent visible line, and on imprinted concrete cannot be made to match at all.

The route wants thinking about rather than taking the shortest line. It should avoid crossing under a garage threshold where water could track, keep a sensible separation from other buried services, come up in a position where a post or a wall unit makes sense, and reach a place where the cable will actually stretch to the car's charging port without crossing a walkway. That last point is the one most often missed and the one people live with daily.

Where a wall-mounted unit is not practical — because the parking space is away from the house, or the wall is a boundary — a post or bollard needs a base. That is a small concrete foundation sized for the unit, set square and true, with the duct brought up through it, and finished so that surface water cannot sit around it. Getting the height and the orientation right matters: a charge point that faces the wrong way puts the cable across the walking route.

There is one situation that is genuinely worth flagging early, because it can change the whole design. Where a charge point cable would have to cross a public footway to reach a car parked on the street, that is not something that can be arranged privately — trailing a cable across a pavement is a hazard and generally not permitted, and any cross-pavement solution needs the highway authority's involvement. If off-street parking is the reason for the charge point, the crossover and the parking bay come first.

Finally, the bay itself. A parking space for a car that gets plugged in every day benefits from being set out deliberately: level enough that a cable does not sit in a puddle, wide enough to open a door and reach the port, and surfaced so that the cable is not being dragged over sharp aggregate. None of that is expensive when the drive is being built, and all of it is a nuisance to change afterwards.

What the job covers

  • Duct route agreed with the electrician before the ground is opened
  • Duct of adequate size laid with a draw cord for future cables
  • Route kept clear of other buried services and garage thresholds
  • Concrete base formed for a charging post or bollard where needed
  • Duct brought up cleanly and sealed against water ingress
  • Parking bay set out so the cable reaches without crossing a walkway
  • Levels set so cables and the unit are not sitting in standing water
  • Surface reinstated to match where a retrofit trench is unavoidable

What it costs

We don't publish a price for this yet, because a number pulled out of the air is worse than no number at all — your contractor has to honour it. On driveways it would also be close to meaningless: the groundworks are usually the biggest single factor, and how deep the dig has to go varies enormously house to house. You'll get a firm price for your actual job when they ring you back, before any work starts. The quote itself is free and there's no obligation either way.

Common questions

Should I lay a duct even if I have no electric car yet?

Yes — it is the cheapest thing on this page and the most expensive to add later. A duct with a draw cord laid while the drive is open costs very little. Retro-fitting one means cutting and trenching a finished surface, which leaves a permanent visible line on tarmac or resin and cannot be matched at all on imprinted concrete.

Do you do the electrical work as well?

No — the circuit, the protective devices, the earthing arrangement and the charge point itself are a qualified electrician's work and are notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations. What this covers is the groundworks: the duct route, the trench, the base and the reinstatement. The two are coordinated so the ground is only opened once.

Can I run a cable across the pavement to my car?

Trailing a cable across a public footway is a hazard and is generally not permitted — it is a trip risk for pedestrians and the pavement is not yours. Any cross-pavement charging solution needs the highway authority's involvement. If the point of the charge point is convenient charging, sorting off-street parking and a crossover is the real first step.

Where should the charge point go?

Somewhere the cable reaches the car's port without crossing a walkway, where the unit is not in a puddle, and where you are not manoeuvring round it. It sounds obvious and it is the thing most often got wrong. Working out where the car will actually sit, and which side its port is on, before the duct route is set, avoids living with a daily annoyance.

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